Mortgage Refinance Calculator

Should you refinance? See your true break-even — not the naive one lenders show — plus the term-reset trap and the exact rate where a refi starts paying off. All math runs in your browser; your numbers never leave this computer.
🔓 Sells nothing · recommends no lender or products · no ads, no affiliates, no upsell — just your own numbers, kept 100% private.
Your data:
ℹ️ How saving, downloading & updating work — click to expand
  • Auto-save — everything you type is remembered in this browser automatically. Nothing is ever uploaded; clearing your browser data erases it.
  • ⬇ Download file / ⬆ Load file — save your numbers as a small portable file you can back up or move to another device, then load it back later.
  • 📥 Download this tool — saves the entire calculator as one HTML file. Open it any time with no internet — it makes no network calls at all, so it's fully private and works forever.
  • 🔄 Get latest version — refreshes to the newest published version. Your saved data is not erased (but hit ⬇ Download file first if you want to be extra safe).

Your current loan required

Grab all three numbers from your latest statement. Use only the principal & interest part of the payment — leave out the escrow portion (taxes and insurance don't change when you refinance the loan itself). Assumes a fixed rate on both loans.
Not sure? Look it up free on Zillow or Redfin, then type the number here — this tool never sends your address (or anything else) anywhere.

The new loan required

Typical closing costs run 2–5% of the loan. A discount point is an upfront fee of 1% of the loan that "buys" a lower rate — enter the points here and the already-discounted rate above, and the break-even math weighs whether they were worth it.
Checking this is the fairest comparison: same money out of your pocket every month, so the lower rate shows up purely as a faster payoff and less interest — no payment-stretching illusion.

Your plans the deciding factor

This matters more than the rate. Closing costs are paid up front, but the savings trickle in monthly — if you sell or refinance again before the savings catch up, the refi loses money no matter how good the rate looked.

The verdict

True break-even
Saved by the time you sell
Saved over the loan's life
Current loan paid off
New loan paid off
Refi worth it below
Why "true" break-even? (the honest math)
Most refi calculators divide closing costs by the monthly payment drop and call it break-even. That's misleading: a new 30-year loan almost always has a lower payment than a loan you're 6 years into — even at the same rate — because it stretches the debt back out. The payment drop isn't all savings; part of it is just slower payoff.

This tool compares your whole financial position instead, month by month: every dollar you'd pay under each loan plus the loan balance you'd still owe. The true break-even is the month the refi actually puts you ahead — cash and equity combined. That's the number that should drive the decision, and it's usually later than the naive one.

Are you ahead yet? — net benefit over time

Year by year

"Cash-flow saved" is simply how much less you paid that year under the new loan. "Net benefit" also counts the loan balances — it's your true running position, and it starts in the hole by exactly your closing costs.